Bumping across the border to Bolivia

Next stop was the town of Tilcara, approximately 4 hours north of Salta, and not too far from the Bolivian border. Although our last stop was also in the desert, it felt more like a small desert town when we arrived in Tilcara. This town was so small that the supermarket didn't have 1.65 pesos change and I instead received a note saying that I had credit there! Although the town was nice at times, the dust and our concerns about the quality of the food meant that we didnt hang around for more than a couple of slow days.


While there though we also managed to squeeze in a day-trip to Purmamarca, which is known for its hills of seven colours, as well as for the numerous artisan shops and stalls.


The further north we head the more concerned we have become about the quality of the food and its storage. It seems people are more prepared to refrigerate drinks than meat. Seeing a dozen luke-warm chickens being sold on the front counter is less than confidence instilling.

The 15 Boliviano ($2.50) 3 hour bus trip from Villazon to Tupiza was an interesting experience. After enduring the (very bad) singing busker on our bus we had our first experience of Bolivian roads, or the lack thereof. At one point we were actually driving up a river bed, and shortly after, up the river itself. At that point it made perfect sense why many Bolivian buses have incredibly high suspension.

One we set down in Tupiza we experienced our latest evening desert storm, which is the 3rd desert town in a row. I think we must be a rain charm for the locals, and we have quite enjoyed watching the storms roll in as it feels similar to being home this time of the year.


The next day we set out on a 5 hour horseride through the "Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid" territory. Although our guide was less than enthusiasic and at one point I managed to come off the horse at full gallop, the ride itself was fantastic - up and down dusty red hills, along dry riverbeds past towering cacti and amongst strange rock formations.

Our next adventure is to set off on a 4-day tour of south-western Bolivia, which will include a tour of the massive salt flats west of Uyuni.

From falls to deserts, Argentine style

After opting against visiting the Argentinean side of the falls, we made a straightforward border crossing and headed further into Argentina towards Posadas. Most people only stop here because it's a convenient break between Foz and Buenos Aires (or in our case, between Foz and Salta), or to visit the nearby Jesuit mission ruins. Immediately the difference from Brazil was obvious - there was much more of a conservative and decidedly European feel, without the overwhelming joy and passion in life that the Brazilians flaunt. While we were here the town was hit by a massive storm that felled huge trees in the main square.


We also watched some groups of schoolkids with all sorts of drums (from hand held to massive 44 gallon drums wheeled on trolleys) playing in the square, complete with synchronized dancing from the schoolgirls. This was no vivacious bateria of Brazil; instead, the music had a distinctive air of defiance, and you got the feeling that the next Che Guevara could be standing amongst their ranks (though probably not the guy wearing the fluoro green sequined Che hat). The air of defiance went up a few notches when a rival school band turned up and a drum-off ensued, and some nervous looking police formed a rough line between the groups in case things turned ugly. But aside from lots of noise and a spontaneous mosh pit, nothing eventuated, and gradually everyone, including us, drifted off for their lunch and siesta.


In food terms, Argentina is known for steak, empanadas and more steak, with good reason - they're delicious (and cheap)! Unfortunately due to some sick cruel twist of fate, my stomach has decided to reject this wonderful meat, so I've been forced to adopt a no-meat diet in order to avoid spending long periods of time hugging the toilet bowl :-(


We overnight-bussed to Salta, and then on to the small town of Cafayate, set against a spaghetti western backdrop of swirling dust, towering cactus and rocky hills in every shade of brown, red and tan.


However in stark contrast to this desert setting, the area is well known for its wine, and you only have to venture a short distance to see lush green vineyards, all frequented by thirsty tourists on luxury guided booze cruises. Lacking the luxury of an airconditioned tour bus, we visited only a few wineries (on bike and foot), including Bodega Nanni - the oldest winery in the region, with several international awards to boot. All of their wine is organic - no chemicals are used in the purification process, only egg whites - and their drops include the two typical wines of the region - Malbec (red) and Torrentes (white).


To go with our wine, we headed out to the Cabras de Cafayate (goat farm) and checked out the goats and the cheese factory. The baby goats were ridiculously cute, and the cheese was pretty good too - must be something to do with the classical music they play to them during milking!


Aside from drinking wine and eating cheese, we managed to squeeze in some more strenous activities, including a visit to the sand dunes (which may one day cover the town) and then a trek to the Quebradas of Cafayate. After walking through a narrow rocky canyon filled with spiky plant after spiky plant, we emerged next to a red sand dune looking over to some amazing coloured hills. The whole landscape was just amazing, and totally different to anything we've ever seen.


While we were here we were lucky enough to witness a desert storm - the first rain since March! - which temporarily flooded the streets and blacked out the town. After Cafayate, we're heading north through more desert territory, in search of llamas, lakes and Wile E. Coyote...