Not all those who wander are lost: Bumping across the border to Bolivia

Next stop was the town of Tilcara, approximately 4 hours north of Salta, and not too far from the Bolivian border. Although our last stop was also in the desert, it felt more like a small desert town when we arrived in Tilcara. This town was so small that the supermarket didn't have 1.65 pesos change and I instead received a note saying that I had credit there! Although the town was nice at times, the dust and our concerns about the quality of the food meant that we didnt hang around for more than a couple of slow days.

While there though we also managed to squeeze in a day-trip to Purmamarca, which is known for its hills of seven colours, as well as for the numerous artisan shops and stalls.

The further north we head the more concerned we have become about the quality of the food and its storage. It seems people are more prepared to refrigerate drinks than meat. Seeing a dozen luke-warm chickens being sold on the front counter is less than confidence instilling.

The 15 Boliviano ($2.50) 3 hour bus trip from Villazon to Tupiza was an interesting experience. After enduring the (very bad) singing busker on our bus we had our first experience of Bolivian roads, or the lack thereof. At one point we were actually driving up a river bed, and shortly after, up the river itself. At that point it made perfect sense why many Bolivian buses have incredibly high suspension.

One we set down in Tupiza we experienced our latest evening desert storm, which is the 3rd desert town in a row. I think we must be a rain charm for the locals, and we have quite enjoyed watching the storms roll in as it feels similar to being home this time of the year.

The next day we set out on a 5 hour horseride through the "Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid" territory. Although our guide was less than enthusiasic and at one point I managed to come off the horse at full gallop, the ride itself was fantastic - up and down dusty red hills, along dry riverbeds past towering cacti and amongst strange rock formations.